{"id":23201,"date":"2025-05-12T16:01:03","date_gmt":"2025-05-12T14:01:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/finelife.tv\/fr\/?p=23201"},"modified":"2025-05-12T16:01:04","modified_gmt":"2025-05-12T14:01:04","slug":"expo-alaia-le-discret-x-mugler-le-flamboyant","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/finelife.tv\/fr\/2025\/05\/12\/expo-alaia-le-discret-x-mugler-le-flamboyant\/","title":{"rendered":"Expo Ala\u00efa le discret x Mugler le flamboyant"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Expo Ala\u00efa le discret x Mugler le flamboyant la rencontre de deux l\u00e9gendes du style et de la coupe des ann\u00e9es 80-90. Une conversation monumentale autour de la couture \u00e0 la Fondation Azzedine Ala\u00efa<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ala\u00efa \u00e9tait un couturier collectionneur de mode, d’art, de design. Sa fondation rassemble des milliers de pi\u00e8ces. Notamment 200 cr\u00e9ations de Thierry Mugler dont une quarantaine sont expos\u00e9es jusqu’\u00e0 fin juin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

L’architecture de la Verrerie est parfaite pour les coupes des deux maitres de la couture. L’\u00e9crin de verre sublime les formes des mod\u00e8les tandis que l’atelier du premier \u00e9tage les enrobent.<\/p>\n\n\n

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Mugler robe longue les aviateuses 1987 (d\u00e9tail)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

En guise d’accueil des roses au creux d’un vertigineux d\u00e9collet\u00e9 bord\u00e9 de satin … rose. Une robe du soir de la collection Les aviateuses de 1987. Du Mugler qui emprunte les lignes d’Ala\u00efa. C’est l’une des pi\u00e8ces de cette conversation de style entre deux virtuoses. Ici du jersey, l\u00e0 du velours ou du encore du cr\u00eape. Toujours, des coupes qui semblent irr\u00e9elles. Tellement pr\u00e8s du corps, tellement parfaites. Une architecture en tissus. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Ala\u00efa robe couture longue 2003<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Un coup de foudre r\u00e9ciproque<\/h2>\n\n\n
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Thierry Mugler et Azzedine Ala\u00efa \u00e0 Sidi Bou Sa\u00efd vers 1980 – Fondation Azzedine Ala\u00efa<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n

Originaire de Tunisie, Azz\u00e9dine Ala\u00efa (1935-2017) s’installe \u00e0 Paris en 1956 apr\u00e8s ses \u00e9tudes d’architecture. Il travaille pour de riches clientes. Parfois il \u00ab\u00a0donne la main\u00a0\u00bb \u00e0 des couturiers d\u00e9j\u00e0 c\u00e9l\u00e8bres. Yves Saint-Laurent le remarque mais c’est avec Thierry Mugler (1945-2022) que se produit \u00ab\u00a0un coup de foudre r\u00e9ciproque\u00a0\u00bb.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00c0 Paris, en 1979, Mugler invite Ala\u00efa \u00e0 r\u00e9aliser la s\u00e9rie de smokings de son d\u00e9fil\u00e9. Un d\u00e9clic pour Azz\u00e9dine le discret qui d\u00e9cide alors de lancer sa propre maison. Et c’est Thierry le flamboyant qui s’occupe de la communication. Une vid\u00e9o montre le d\u00e9fil\u00e9 Ala\u00efa de 1982 \u00e0 New-York o\u00f9 \u00e9clate le talent et la pudeur du couturier. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ala\u00efa-Mugler : deux temp\u00e9raments oppos\u00e9s unis dans la cr\u00e9ation et l’amiti\u00e9. \u00ab\u00a0Si Mugler a le sens du show jusqu\u2019\u00e0 orchestrer le plus grand d\u00e9fil\u00e9 de ses cr\u00e9ations et ses fantaisies en 1984 au Zenith, Ala\u00efa a le go\u00fbt de l\u2019intime et de la perfection\u00a0\u00bb souligne l’exposition. Ala\u00efa h\u00e9ritier de Chrit\u00f3tal Balenciaga et de Madeleine Vionnet. Le pape du noir. Mugler le roi du glamour et des extravagances. Le lanceur de parfums, adorateur du corset et de combinaisons improbables comme le bustier libellule autour d’un guidon de Harley. Tous deux se rejoignent pour une c\u00e9l\u00e9bration de la femme aux \u00e9paules larges et \u00e0 la taille serr\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Une conversation haute couture<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u00ab Depuis notre rencontre, dira Thierry Mugler au sujet de son ami, mes v\u00eatements sont moins abstraits, davantage dans le r\u00e9el, le corps s\u2019y sent plus \u00e0 l\u2019aise et les siens ont quelque chose de plus percutant (\u2026) Je crois qu\u2019avec moi, Azzedine Ala\u00efa a pu s\u2019affranchir, disons se lib\u00e9rer pour passer \u00e0 des tailleurs aux lignes plus ergonomiques et sinueuses\u00bb. <\/p>\n\n\n

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Pour construire l’exposition, le commissaire Olivier Saillard a pris pour base une pi\u00e8ce Mugler en cherchant des pi\u00e8ces d’Ala\u00efa en correspondance ou bien l’inverse. Objectif : montrer comment et combien leurs mondent dialoguent. C’est flagrant avec les pi\u00e8ces en noir ou bleu profond de l’entr\u00e9e. C’est aussi le cas pour les cr\u00e9ations en jean, en peaux, en franges et pour les univers chromatiques. Le bleu, ou encore rouge mugl\u00e9rien se d\u00e9clinant avec le noir, le beige, le taupe d’Ala\u00efa.<\/p>\n\n\n

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La fondation Azzedine Ala\u00efa<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Azzedine Ala\u00efa avait l’habitude de pr\u00e9senter des expositions au 18 rue de la Verrerie, son lieu de vie et de travail. Le cr\u00e9ateur y pr\u00e9sentait ses coups de c\u0153ur allant du design \u00e0 la photographie. Il \u00e9tait entour\u00e9 par son compagnon le peintre allemand Christoph Von Weyhe et par une amie, la galeriste italienne Carla Sozzani. Le souhait le plus cher du cr\u00e9ateur \u00e9tait que ce lieu puisse continuer \u00e0 vivre apr\u00e8s sa mort. En novembre 2018, la Fondation ouvre une librairie et un caf\u00e9 et y organise des signatures, lectures et conversations. Cette Fondation a pour vocation de conserver, montrer et de partager avec les \u00e9tudiants cet immense patrimoine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

<\/p>\n\n\n\n

O\u00f9 \ud83d\udc49 Fondation Azzedine Ala\u00efa <\/a><\/strong>18 rue de la verrerie Paris 75004
Quand \ud83d\uddd3\ufe0f jusqu’au 29 juin<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Related article Expo Ala\u00efa le discret x Mugler le flamboyant<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

La vie Ala\u00efa Donatien Grau r\u00e9v\u00e8le un couturier rhapsode<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Expo Ala\u00efa le discret x Mugler le flamboyant la rencontre de deux l\u00e9gendes du style et de la coupe des ann\u00e9es 80-90. 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