{"id":26974,"date":"2026-03-04T11:36:10","date_gmt":"2026-03-04T10:36:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/finelife.tv\/fr\/?p=26974"},"modified":"2026-03-04T11:36:11","modified_gmt":"2026-03-04T10:36:11","slug":"lillian-bassman-au-met-mode-abstraite-et-dangereuse","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/finelife.tv\/fr\/2026\/03\/04\/lillian-bassman-au-met-mode-abstraite-et-dangereuse\/","title":{"rendered":"Lillian Bassman au Met : mode abstraite et dangereuse"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Lillian Bassman au Met : mode abstraite et dangereuse. Bazaar and Beyond<\/em> r\u00e9v\u00e8le la vision subversive de la photographe \u00e0 travers ses solarisations radicales, ses abstractions en chambre noire et un don majeur de 70 \u0153uvres. Une r\u00e9trospective qui transforme les pages de Harper\u2019s Bazaar<\/em> en terrain d\u2019exp\u00e9rimentation audacieuse.<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

N\u00e9e en 1917 dans le Bronx au sein d\u2019une communaut\u00e9 boh\u00e8me d\u2019\u00e9migr\u00e9s russes, Lillian Bassman n\u2019a jamais suivi de formation classique en mode ou en couture. Adolescente, elle pose nue \u00e0 l\u2019Art Students League, participe aux projets WPA et arpente le downtown artistique new-yorkais. Son v\u00e9ritable apprentissage ? Les salles du Metropolitan Museum of Art, o\u00f9 elle s\u2019immerge dans l\u2019histoire du costume aux c\u00f4t\u00e9s de son mari, le photographe Paul Himmel. \u00ab C\u2019est au Met qu\u2019on s\u2019est form\u00e9s \u00e0 la mode \u00bb, dira-t-elle plus tard.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Itin\u00e9raire d’une art&fashion addict<\/h2>\n\n\n\n



\u00c0 24 ans, en 1941, elle entre presque par hasard au Harper\u2019s Bazaar comme apprentie designer. Sous la houlette d\u2019Alexey Brodovitch \u2013 ma\u00eetre absolu du modernisme \u00e0 la New School \u2013, elle absorbe les influences du Bauhaus, du surr\u00e9alisme et du constructivisme. Avec Carmel Snow et Diana Vreeland, ils r\u00e9inventent le magazine : typographie tranchante, marges a\u00e9riennes, doubles pages explosives o\u00f9 la photo domine.

Lillian Bassman va plus loin encore comme art director de Junior Bazaar. Elle transpose ces codes modernistes aux pr\u00e9occupations adolescentes \u2013 looks campus, bals de d\u00e9butantes \u2013 avec une g\u00e9om\u00e9trie ac\u00e9r\u00e9e et des montages dynamiques. Elle y donne leurs premi\u00e8res chances \u00e0 des talents comme Richard Avedon.

Encourag\u00e9e par Himmel, elle passe derri\u00e8re l\u2019objectif \u00e0 la fin des ann\u00e9es 1940. Ses images red\u00e9finissent le glamour : silhouettes essentielles, gestes fugaces, d\u00e9tails fondus dans un flou vaporeux. Dans la chambre noire, elle invente des techniques extr\u00eames \u2013 solarisation, interpositions de tissus, pinceaux, d\u00e9coloration au bleach \u2013 qui font basculer la mode vers l\u2019abstraction pure et l\u2019expressionnisme. Ce qu\u2019elle cache, elle le fait vibrer : une sensualit\u00e9 fragile, une \u00e9l\u00e9gance presque fantomatique.

L\u2019exposition suit ce parcours en va-et-vient : du studio \u00e0 la page magazine, des exp\u00e9rimentations in\u00e9dites en darkroom aux r\u00e9impressions tr\u00e8s abstraites des ann\u00e9es 1990. \u00c0 cette \u00e9poque, des d\u00e9cennies apr\u00e8s avoir quitt\u00e9 le milieu, Lillian Bassman red\u00e9couvre ses n\u00e9gatifs anciens et les r\u00e9interpr\u00e8te pour une nouvelle g\u00e9n\u00e9ration marqu\u00e9e par son propre h\u00e9ritage transgressif.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u0152uvres phares : tirages solaris\u00e9s et collages<\/h2>\n\n\n
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\u00a9<\/strong> Lillian Bassman Exercices for Optics<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n\n\n



Parmi les pi\u00e8ces phares (plus de 60 au total) : maquettes explosives pour le Harper\u2019s Bazaar et le Junior Bazaar, photomontages des ann\u00e9es 1950-60, tirages solaris\u00e9s iconiques \u2013 dont la c\u00e9l\u00e8bre Solarized Fashion Study vers 1960 \u2013, collages r\u00e9v\u00e9lant comment elle a refondu le modernisme pour la presse grand public, et une affiche r\u00e9cemment red\u00e9couverte.

Gr\u00e2ce au don g\u00e9n\u00e9reux de 70 \u0153uvres par ses enfants Lizzie et Eric Himmel, et \u00e0 des pr\u00eats exceptionnels (publications rares, documents d\u2019\u00e9poque), l’exposition Bazaar and Beyond replace Lillian Bassman au c\u0153ur des collections du Met \u2013 l\u00e0 o\u00f9 tout a commenc\u00e9 pour elle. Plus qu\u2019une monographie de mode, c\u2019est le portrait d\u2019une \u00ab insurg\u00e9e \u00bb qui a fait des pages glac\u00e9es d’un magazine un espace de po\u00e9sie dangereuse et d\u2019abstraction radicale. Une exposition \u00e0 voir pour saisir comment une photographe a r\u00e9invent\u00e9 le regard sur l\u2019\u00e9l\u00e9gance au XXe si\u00e8cle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Photo d’ouverture \u00a9<\/strong> Lillian Bassman Solarized Fashion Study <\/p>\n\n\n\n

INFOS<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Lillian Bassman: Bazaar and Beyond<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Du 2 mars au 26 juillet 2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Met New-York<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Article li\u00e9 Lillian Bassman au Met : mode abstraite et dangereuse<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Harper\u2019s Bazaar, premier magazine de mode : le MAD chic<\/a><\/strong>
<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

L’exposition Bazaar and Beyond r\u00e9v\u00e8le la vision subversive de la photographe \u00e0 travers ses solarisations radicales, ses abstractions en chambre noire et un don majeur de 70 \u0153uvres<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[4],"tags":[5326,5885,3202,5882,68,2433,5883,5884,148],"class_list":["post-26974","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-blog","tag-art-abstrait","tag-bazzar-and-beyond","tag-expo","tag-expo-phto","tag-exposition","tag-exposition-photo","tag-lilian-bassman","tag-met","tag-mode"],"yoast_head":"\nLillian Bassman au Met : mode abstraite et dangereuse - FineLife.tv<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Lillian Bassman au Met : mode abstraite et dangereuse. 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